Category Archives: camping

South Carolina’s beautiful Lowcountry

Spoiler alert: There is nothing we didn’t like about the Lowcountry just outside Beaufort called the Sea Islands, a collection of small islands huddled together, separated by tidal creeks and connected by short bridges.

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The definite highlight was our stay at beautiful Hunting Island State Park – we loved it so much that we extended our visit for an additional five days. We’d set our alarm to a pre-sunrise hour, walk five minutes to the beach and be there for the sunrise over the Atlantic. In the distance there were shrimp boats (no doubt harvesting our dinner that evening). Rigby was fascinated by the small fiddler crabs scuttling along the sand (South Carolina beaches are on-leash dog friendly). The beach is long and luxurious, anchored by a lighthouse at one end and a sweeping curve of sand at the far reach. The early morning sun cast a warm glow on the palmetto palms that line the back of the dunes. It set up each day perfectly.

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In addition to the natural beauty of the Lowcountry, this region is steeped in history.

There is a long tradition of shrimping. We’d stop at Gay Fish Co. (just at the bridge from St. Helena Island to Hunting Island) to buy the freshest shrimp we’d ever tasted. Half-a-dozen shrimp boats were tied to the rickety docks. Inside, the woman weighing our daily ration told us their docks stood in for the Alabama coastline in the filming of the shrimping scenes in the hit movie, Forrest Gump. On the wall there’s a framed photo of Tom Hanks and Gary Sinise playing out a scene from the movie.

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We visited the Penn Center Historic District, preserving the Gullah community on St. Helena Island. The Gullah people – the descendants of enslaved Africans – are known for their unique culture and traditions imported from West Africa (including the weaving of beautiful sweetgrass baskets). Before bridges were built, these islands were isolated and the culture was protected and thrived. Gullah culture is all over the Sea Islands, but the Center is the only spot where the buildings remain intact and protected as a National Historic Site. When the program at the site opened it was the first school in the nation to provide formal education for freed African slaves; a path to liberation. Over time, the focus shifted to civil rights and social justice issues. Now, the Center is a part of the National Park Service’s Gullah Geechee Cultural Heritage Corridor, preserving this unique culture, traditions and heritage.

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One of our favourite meals was at the modest Gullah Grub Restaurant. Our lunch started with squares of rich cornbread, still warm from the oven, and glasses of “swamp water” (a mix of sweet tea and lemonade, called an Arnold Palmer on the mainland). Traditional Gullah dishes are based on whatever is seasonally available – rice, tomatoes, okra, fish. We ate local: a starter of she-crab soup, barbecue ribs and fried chicken with a side of collards doused with vinegar for some extra tang.

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We’ll be back . . . again and again and again.

Charleston – a city of grace

Charleston, South Carolina, evokes the very best of the South. It is a stunningly beautiful city – it was once the richest city in the United States (by a factor of eight) with the fourth largest population. It shows.

The city was a gift to several British lords from King Charles II; it grew to be the largest slave port in the Americas and one of only three walled cities on the continent (the others are St. Augustine and Quebec City). And this extraordinary wealth is still on display along street after street of vaulting mansions, the largest of which is 24,000 square feet of floor space and includes three Louis Tiffany chandeliers. The rich and the uber rich – slave traders, cotton brokers, ship owners, bankers, rice or indigo magnates – used this perfect port city as their summertime retreat from their inland operations where malaria and yellow fever wiped out thousands of people.

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Like the wealthy class of every era, they travelled extensively across Europe bringing back with them the architectural styles and fashions of the very rich across Greece, Italy, France and Spain. And they combined these early modern and classic styles with adaptations from the Bahamas where living quarters were designed to maximize every breeze, dissipate the summer heat and capture the winter warmth.

We rode through the city in the back of a mule driven wagon with Matthew who works for the Palmetto Carriage Company. It’s a dog-friendly, one-hour carriage ride during which Matthew riffs on the many interesting historical aspects of this city’s neighbourhoods. The city only permits 20 carriages on the streets at any one time, so every different carriage driver has to queue at the bingo machine and await their route assignment. This lottery system turns out to be fair for everyone, limits the number of carriages slowing down ordinary traffic and gives Matthew his first opportunity to amuse and inform us of the idiosyncrasies of his work as a historic guide.

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So many interesting things to note. For example, many buildings feature what look like large bolts in their façade and exterior walls. These, Matthew tells us, were products of a massive 7.3 magnitude event that provoked home owners to pass massive steel rods through their houses to pull them upright and into alignment again after the earth’s rumblings. “No one knew they had earthquakes here until a whopper hit in August 1886.”

Being a port city, Charlestown has known more floods than it can count and being so close to the sea many parts of are actually several feet below sea level. The cobblestones – over which we rattle under the energy of our mules, Hit and Run – arrived to Charleston in the holds of ships as ballast for trans-Atlantic voyages. The Old Exchange and Customs building – a symbol of Britain’s oppressive imperial control over the colony – was the last building erected by the British in the Americas before the American Revolution. Over the years it has served multiple roles, including as dungeon during the era of piracy and the Civil War.

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The Civil War left its mark in other ways too. Large parts of the city – particularly those within range of ship borne cannons– were reduced to burned out rubble before being re-built post-war. We stroll along the Battery, the point where Southerners in their finest clothes gathered with drinks of Planters Punch to watch the opening salvos of Confederate cannons on Fort Sumter – clearly visible from the old neighbourhood – that inaugurated the American Civil War on April 12, 1861. They thought this glorious little war could not last more than a few weeks, months at the most. No one foresaw four devastating years of war that pitted families and neighbours against each other.

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Every seat on our wagon is taken. The ride is fascinating. Matthew is interesting and congenial. Even Rigby enjoyed it. She napped underneath our feet for the entire hour.

On the edge of town we stayed at the very dog-positive James Island County Park Campground with an enormous off leash area that included a dog beach and special events like Yappy Hour.

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Myrtle Beach: It’s not all golf and t-shirt shops

Could there be more of a contrast between the sleepy and secluded villages of Down East and the hustle of Myrtle Beach? While the t-shirt shops and entertainment-style attractions lining Ocean Blvd. (think: Ripley’s and wax museums) are not really our style, we were able to find lots of low key and authentic experiences in the Myrtle Beach area.

We set up camp at the excellent Huntington Beach State Park, just south of the city – an amazing mix of maritime forest, marshlands and pristine beachfront.

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Almost immediately across the road is an area highlight, Brookgreen Gardens, a quiet escape from the busyness of Myrtle Beach’s Grand Strand. We took a long meditative stroll through the manicured grounds that tastefully blend art and formal gardens with a wild nature preserve across 9,100-acres of lowcountry South Carolina.

Railroad magnate Archer Milton Huntington and his wife Anna, a talented sculptor, built the gardens at Brookgreen in 1932 on land that was once a massive rice plantation. The grounds marry ponds and Southern gardens with hundreds of pieces of sculpture by some of America’s most celebrated artists.

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Between Brookgreen and Myrtle Beach is the small seaside hamlet of Murrells Inlet, famous for its fishing docks and fresh seafood. We lunched dockside at The Wicked Tuna which boasts a one-of-a-kind fresh seafood experience – if by fresh you mean that the fish comes right off the boat, and is handed directly into coolers in the restaurant’s ground floor.

Chef Dylan Foster knows he’s got a good thing going. “Benefit is, we control the quality of the fish right from the ocean to the restaurant. It can be fished in the morning and on the plate for lunch. It’s ocean to table.”

We had the day’s local catch: delish blackened mahi mahi tacos served with guacamole, tomatillo salsa and topped with a crispy house slaw.

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In town, a stone’s throw from the ocean-hugging Boardwalk, we sat down with Victor Shamah, owner of a Myrtle Beach music institution, The Bowery. Trademarked as “the eighth wonder of the world” it’s surely one of the last authentic honky-tonks in the lower 48.

“The Bowery is an old fashioned draft beer joint,” explained Vic, the owner for the last 34 years. “We sell just live music and draft beer. Alabama was our house band from 1973 to 1980 – they started here. They added country rock with a little more of a beat to it.”

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It’s not uncommon for visitors like singer Mark Chestnut to walk out of the audience to join today’s house band for a song or two. And the boys from Alabama stop by on a regular basis. The Bowery is that kind of place. The music fires up around 8:30 pm and goes steadily until 1:30 am or later – no breaks. And the band plays everything requested by the audience, which means that in a very short period of time a band has learned – on the bandstand – a huge repertoire of music if they want to keep their gig. Regulars have been walking through the front doors for 30 or more years. It’s a one-of-a-kind honky-tonk where you come if you love live music and its particular blend of atmosphere and tap beer.

Just down the main street, the massive SkyWheel revolves to heights 187 feet above the Boardwalk, with views well up and down the Atlantic coastline. It was well worth the ride because things always make more sense when seen from above. For those with acrophobia, there’s a panic button installed in the ceiling of each separate compartment.

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Finally, we topped off the day with an evening in the cushy seats at the Alabama Theatre for an evening of live, top-shelf music and comedy. We enjoyed their current show, One, which featured a selection of number one country, Motown, Broadway and R&B hits from the 20th century. The musicianship was excellent, featuring players who have toured with the biggest names in popular music, the singing and dancing were first rate and the comedy had the whole auditorium laughing at themselves and each other.

The next day, on the way out of town and headed down Highway 17 toward Charleston, we took a break at Pawleys Island Hammock Shops – a cluster of 22 household and gift stores best known for the original manufacturing site of the famous Pawleys Island hammock.

Had to take a break to check out the merchandise.

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Ocracoke is a state of mind

Getting to Ocracoke Island means a ferry crossing. And we not so much arrived at the tiny dock at the north tip as we gently slid in – both as a mode of transportation and a mindset.

It took seconds for us to love Ocracoke. There’s an air of instant relaxation. Sure, there’s just one way to get there (ferries at either end). Sure, the NPS campground has no hook-ups and cold water showers. And you won’t hear us complain about the total absence of anything remotely resembling a chain store. Thank goodness.

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So, what do people do once they get there? Well, they walk on the long strands of deserted beach. They fish. They explore the tiny streets of the island’s one village. They visit the lighthouse and look for the spot where the notorious Blackbeard met his end in 1718. They do a little shopping at the one-of-a-kind artisan shops. They talk to the locals. They eat their weight in fresh seafood.

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The off-season is the time to come (autumn is when the weather is great – as long as those nuisance hurricanes stay out of the way – and it’s the best time for fishing). Summer can be busy, which is why the village has introduced golf carts as a way of dealing with cars clogging up the historic district’s narrow streets.

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The setting is spectacular. The seafood couldn’t be fresher. But, it’s really the people of Ocracoke and the rich sense of community that made our visit shine.

It doesn’t take much to pull a story of the families of Ocracoke from Ocracoke Preservation Museum volunteer historian Al Scarborough. “Ocracoke is a very small community. Everyone’s related. The good news is everyone’s related,” he laughs. “The bad news is everyone knows your business.”

It was never really a fishing village, although people think of it that way. It began as an outpost for pilots, the skilled seamen who piloted schooners through the inlet. The pilots and their families were the lifeblood of Ocracoke.

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The island has seen shifts in its economy. When steam engines came along the need for pilots tanked. People moved to subsistence fishing. Refrigeration was invented and the catch could be stored before being shipped to larger ports. As soon as ferries connected the island to the mainland, tourism trickled in, and rocketed once a reverse osmosis plant in the 1960s meant that small hotels and inns could handle a larger number of guests.

Now, don’t get the idea that all of this growth means high rises and the like. Ocracoke has stayed small and the people like it that way. Flip open a phone book and you’ll still find pages of island family names: Gaskill, Gaskin, Braggs and Howard.

Philip Howard traces his family lineage back to the original purchasers of the island in 1759. Philip is a bit of a local authority on the history of the island and he certainly knows “where the bodies are buried.”

Actually, everyone does. Ocracoke (population: 850) has got more than 80 cemeteries and many families buried ‘em in the backyard.

Standing along the narrow, dirt Howard Street (a back laneway in the village’s historic core), Philip was able to point out a slew of final resting places for his relatives. “My grandparents are buried there,” he points. “And my aunt and uncle over there,” pointing the opposite direction down the lane.

It’s still customary to bury one’s dearly departed in the family’s small, fenced backyard cemetery.

It’s cosy and friendly and comfortable and there’s more than enough to fill your time. We’ve got some suggestions of don’t-miss stops:

  • Ocracoke Light Station – the walls are four-foot thick red brick, plastered and whitewashed. Ocracoke1
  • Springer’s Point is a lovely walk through a mature maritime forest to a stretch of beach where historians believe Blackbeard was based.
  • Rudy Austin’s Austin Boat Tours shuttles fishermen, campers and daytrippers to deserted Portsmouth Island. Rudy, an Ocracoke native, covers birding, history, Blackbeard lore, fishing and dolphin watching.
  • North Carolina native Rob Temple operates charters and tours on the schooner Windfall II and the historic Skipjack Wilma Lee. Rob is an authority on Blackbeard and knows all the answers to all the questions.
  • Places to eat: The Flying Melon Café serves three meals a day, including local favourites like Shrimp Mash (grilled local shrimp with poached eggs, topped with hollandaise). If you’re cooking yourself, the place to get fresh seafood is at the Ocracoke Seafood Co., a local fish house where young fishermen like Morty Gaskill keep the traditions alive. Ocracoke8
  • Overnight stays: You’ll want to stay several days. There are many cottages to rent or you can book hotel suites at Captain’s Landing, right on the dockside with spectacular views of the harbour and the lighthouse. RV and tenters can bed down at the NPS Ocracoke Campground just a few miles north of the village.

Cape Hatteras National Seashore: Where land and sea meet

It would have been a mistake to look at a map of the stretch of barrier islands to the south, turn around and head back north to the comforts of the Outer Banks’ “larger” communities, like Nags Head, Kitty Hawk and Manteo. As lovely as these villages are – and they are great places to visit – things got really interesting the further we drove south into the heart of Cape Hatteras National Seashore.

First, a little geography: Cape Hatteras National Seashore is a long, pencil-thin stretch of barrier islands (Bodie, Hatteras, Ocracoke) with the dunes of the Atlantic Ocean on one side and the water of Pamlico Sound on the other. It’s largely land under the watch of the National Park Service, so gets a high level of environmental protection. There are several historic villages scattered along the way (not part of the NPS land) with large beachfront homes and all the amenities of a smaller town.

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We’ve already written about the shifting sand and the close watch residents keep through hurricane season (June – November) but the real highlight is what’s not along long stretches of this pristine coast. The NPS has preserved wetlands for migratory birds (hike along a boardwalk at Pea island National Wildlife Refuge), historic lighthouses and miles of remote sand beach.

In the water, dolphins played. On the shoreline, a few fishermen planted their long rods to cast from the surf and the occasional walker doffed footwear and strolled barefoot along the sand. No shops. No go-carts or mini-golf. Not even a single vending machine. In the NPS campgrounds? No electrical hook-ups and cold water showers. Ink-black skies at night. It’s not everyone’s cup of tea but it sure is ours.

The Outer Banks are infamous as the Graveyard of the Atlantic – a testament to the dangerous shoals that claimed many a passing ship (the estimate is the waters off the banks holds more than 600 shipwrecks dating back centuries).

Craig took the ranger-guided hike up the black and white striped Bodie Island Light Station. The view from the top was great over the long dunes and the salt marshes that are a perfect stopover point for birds migrating north-south along the Atlantic Flyway. Bodie Island Lighthouse was built in 1871, is 214 steps and on a clear day you can see 30 km (18 mi) from the top. Its flash pattern is 2.5 on, 2.5 off, 2.5 on, 22.5 off (just in case you were wondering) and it still uses an original Fresnel lens. The grounds of the lighthouse are dog friendly (but not a climb to the top).

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A little further down the road we stopped at the candy-cane striped lighthouse that most people associate with the Outer Banks: Cape Hatteras Light Station. The National Historic Landmark is the continent’s tallest brick lighthouse (a climb up Hatteras is 248 steps, equivalent to a 12-storey building). The grounds of the lighthouse are dog friendly (but not a climb to the top).

The iconic lighthouse also made it to many a newspaper front page in 1999 when the National Park Service moved the entire brick structure 460 m (1,500 ft) back from an encroaching sea. The sands continue to shift but they say the move should keep the tall building safe for a good long time.

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In Hatteras Village we ate dinner overlooking a dock filled with fishing boats and had a seafood meal that set the bar high for the remainder of our trip. The chef at the Breakwater Restaurant buys local: shrimp, scallops, grouper, flounder, tuna and it shows in the taste on the plate. We ate our fill of steamed shrimp the size of a toddler’s fist that were flavour-packed, meaty and didn’t suffer a bit from being dipped in melted butter. On a quest to embrace grits, Jo ate a delicious main of Shrimp & Grits (and yes, it did the trick – now a convert) and Craig had spicy, blackened chunks of yellowfin tuna (the catch of the day) wrapped in soft wheat tortillas and served with sides of black beans, rice and a pineapple chutney. Dessert was one slice/two forks of Peanut Butter Pie – a rich and creamy PB centre topped with dark, chocolate ganache.

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Like we said, the bar is set high.

The RV lifestyle

Making a commitment to travelling in a smaller RV comes with its own challenges. Think small. Think simple. With the right mindset and a little preparation, you’ll find it’s a breeze.

ECO-ENERGY CONSUMPTION
Investigate solar panels, to create your own mobile power supply. Better yet, think about the ways you use/need energy and make an effort to reduce demand. We find we can go several days on our leisure battery without losing lights at night, laptop operation or energy to our water pump. Mind you, we don’t run toasters, coffee makers or other energy-hogging devices. If you are smart about it, the leisure battery can take you a long way. It recharges while we drive, which makes travel days a snap. We haven’t run out of juice yet.

LOSE THE CLUTTER
No matter how little room you have at home, we can guarantee there will a lot less space to store, stack and squirrel away items onboard a Class B RV. The trick is to separate “need” from “want” and focus on the “need” items first and foremost. After the essentials are taken care of, assess the storage space left before adding more items. You’ll likely find that you can live quite comfortably with much less than you think. By the time you get back home you’ll wonder why in the world you have all that other “stuff” filling your house.

KEEP YOUR RV SPACE TIDY
If you and your significant other have a difference in how clean and tidy things are around the house, before you depart on an RV vacation is the best time to settle. Leave it until you’re on the road, and things could get “complicated” (think: nasty). Be clear about expectations, set the ground rules and do your best to follow them. Besides, messy in a large space (like a house) is a whole different creature than messy in 120 square feet.

FOOD SAFETY
Make sure your fridge is operating at a safe temperature. Don’t stock up too much on perishable items like meat, cheese and eggs (food tip: “liquid” eggs in a carton make omelettes that are just as good as the more fragile ones in the shell). Buy as you go is the best strategy. Have a supply of vacuum plastic bags and hard-sided tubs to pop things into the fridge and freezer.

LEARN SOME BASIC MAINTENANCE SKILLS
Things break down. It helps to keep a supply of smaller items (fuses and tools, anyone?) so you can repair things enough to limp into the mechanic.

HANDLING THE DOLLARS & CENTS
Set up a system to pay your bill online. We’re not fans of automatic payment plans (we like to see the bills long beforehand and make sure there are no errors in charges). Others find the auto payment system works well. Others still, arrange for someone back home to collect and pay the bills on time. Find a system that works for you. What not to do: ignore the bills, leave them in a pile waiting back home, cross your fingers and hope for the best!

HAVE A BACK-UP PLAN
Breakdowns happen. Bad weather happens. Bookmark the websites for Environment Canada, the National Hurricane Center and your favourite online weather websites. Learn the seasons for bad weather (June through November for hurricanes along the Atlantic and Gulf coastlines; April through May for tornados through the Midwest). Check before heading out on a long drive. We know of what we speak: we rode out a tornado in Kentucky and it is not an experience we’d care to repeat!

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How to buy a used Class B RV

THE BASICS

We are Class B RV people. For those of you new to the world of RV travel, a Class B RV is a camper van conversion. The big names you’ll find of Class B campers are Roadtrek, Pleasureway and Leisure Travel. The two other motorized types are Class A (bus style) and Class C (the mid-size motorhome with a boxier style built onto a commercial chassis).

We write what we know about (i.e. tips for buying a used Class B RV) – our current Class B camper van is our fourth. The first three were older models and our current one is a new-to-us 2006 Roadtrek 210 in pristine condition with low mileage.

A lot of the questions and tips below would apply to the process for buying any used RV, regardless of the class or size.

Class A camperClass B camperClass C camper

First – and most importantly – determine exactly what sort of traveller and camper you are:

  • Are you comfortable driving a larger unit?
  • Who’s going to be doing most of the driving?
  • What are your budget limitations? Obviously, the larger the unit, the thirstier the engine. There’s also the question of gas vs diesel fuels (diesel gets better mileage).
  • Are you looking to visit out-of-the-way places? Some campgrounds – some of our favourites, as it turns out – have narrow roads and tight campsites. You don’t want to be trying to do three-point turns to shoehorn a Class A into a Class B-sized site. Some older cities like Santa Fe and New Orleans have narrow streets that would be a nightmare for larger motorhomes to navigate.

When we ticked the boxes, we found that a Class B vehicle is our best fit. It’s our comfort zone: smaller environmental impact, more flexibility, easier to manoeuvre. We lean toward the minimalist approach (don’t need or want TV or toasters). But it’s important to find your own level of comfort and to determine what bells and whistles you want.

It makes sense to invest a little to save a lot. Rent (or borrow) the size motorhome you are thinking of buying. Take it for a weekend and see if it is a good match for your needs and lifestyle. Last fall, we rented a larger Class C in Florida and it was just too much vehicle for our lifestyle – sure, there was more space inside but we couldn’t find parking spaces or back out of anywhere without it becoming a big production. You’ll either be smitten (as we were with our Class B) or totally turned off (as we were by the larger Class C). Only you can decide.

NEW OR USED?

Ahhh . . . that is the question. It’s a matter of how deep your pockets are, and again, finding your comfort level with the mileage on the odometer. Campers and motorhomes are no different from passenger vehicles: the more miles on the ticker, the more wear and tear, the chance that something will eventually wear out or need to be replaced.

Just know that the motorhomes on the road these days can be very expensive new: $150,000 for a decked-out Class B would not be unusual. Class C motorhomes start at around $60,000 and rise rapidly and a bus-size Class A can easily top $250,000.

If you’re on a budget, it’s easy to make a case for buying used. May we suggest:

  1. Start searching now. The more units you see, the better idea you’ll have of the different models, interior layouts, price points and conditions. Look online at the manufacturer’s spec sheets (they are available for years gone by). We needed standing room (Craig is 6’2″) and once I looked at the spec sheets we were narrowed down to just a handful of makes and models. There’s a lot of variety on the market. That way, when you find the right unit for your needs and wallet, you’ll know right away. Check Kijiji, autoTRADER, RVT.com, local newspaper ads, online discussion boards for RVers and local RV dealers. Keep your eyes open when you’re driving around town – some units are parked in the driveway with “For Sale” signs in the window.
  2. Keeping an eye on ads at autoTRADER, RVT.com or Kijiji gives you an idea of what sale prices are for units by year and mileage. It’s all part of the education. You can also search online at the NADAguides – although the prices given are tracking U.S. sales.
  3. Talk to other RV owners to ask what they’d wish they’d known when they purchased their first unit.
  4. If buying an RV is a new venture for you, try to bring along a friend who has been down that road before. They’ll have ideas for what to look for and a familiarity with the basics of a camper van.
  5. When you find something you’re interested in begin with a phone call and a list of questions (see below). If things look good arrange a time to see and test drive the unit. When you call, ask that the camper features be up and running so they can be tested: the propane for the fridge and cooktop, the fridge should be turned on and running, etc. Bring along your full checklist of things to ask and features to test. Take a lot of notes.
  6. Seeing makes all the difference. Layouts vary from one model to the next and you’ll need to find the one that works for you. Craig is over six feet, so testing the comfort of the driving compartment, the length of the bed and headroom standing in the living quarters of the van were make-or-break.
  7. Make sure to connect with your insurance agent to get a quote. It’s an important budgeting step.
  8. Be patient. Look around and sooner or later the right one will come onto your radar. It took us 14 months of searching to find our current Roadtrek but we looked around a lot, so as soon as we found it, we knew it was the right one.

FEATURES TO THINK ABOUT

  • Type of fuel and rate of consumption.
  • How comfortable are you backing up? A back-up camera may be for you. Some new models combine GPS and backup camera.
  • In our experience, as the bed goes, the trip goes. If we sleep well, we travel well. In our Roadtrek, the back dinette becomes a king-size bed (we keep it in bed mode the whole time rather than switching back and forth). We top it with several inches of memory foam, then a mattress cover, sheets and duvet. The memory foam smooths out the dips and crevices between the couch bed sections. Make sure you can comfortably make up the bed – in some cases it requires a certain amount of gymnastic prowess.
  • Is a shower in the unit important? Or will you be relying on showers in campground comfort stations? Check the one inside and (if equipped) the outdoor shower.
  • Do you need a microwave? We had one in our old Leisure Travel and never used it once.
  • Planning on camping in either hot weather (need an air conditioner?) or cold weather (need a heater?).
  • Make sure to run the Fantastic Fan (or similar ceiling exhaust fan). This is one piece on equipment you want to have in tip-top shape. It keeps things cool and the air fresh.
  • How about a generator? Some people claim they need it for boondocking, but we’ve spent many days in non-electrical sites and never run down our shore battery. I guess it depends on how many and what kinds of electrical do-dads and gadgets you use. We keep to lights, pumps and recharging our laptops and cameras . . . and that’s pretty much it.
  • Space requirements: length of the bed, height inside for standing, size of the driving compartment, inside table space (for working or eating), storage space for clothing, instruments, fishing gear, etc.
  • If you plan to do a lot of cooking, you’ll want adequate pantry space and storage for pots and pans. A large enough drawer for utensils and cutlery is really, really nice.

BUYING CHECKLIST

  • Why is the current owner selling? How long have they owned it?
  • Year and odometer reading?
  • Is the body dinged up? Has it ever been in an accident? Ask about any body work (accident related and not).
  • Gas consumption – gas or diesel, miles per gallon? City or highway driving?
  • How has the camper been used – how often, what times of the year, long trips or short trips, everyday driving or vacation travel? According to our mechanic, infrequent use is not necessarily a good thing.
  • How has it been stored – especially over the winter months?
  • Who does the regular maintenance – owner or mechanic? Are there records showing regular oil changes, tune-ups, etc.?
  • Wear and tear on the tires? Check the condition of the spare.
  • Test the batteries – both the engine battery and the leisure/shore battery (the one that runs the interior lights, water pump to the sink and toilet, etc.).
  • Have major mechanical parts been repaired or replaced. This would include transmission, brakes, shocks and struts, timing belt, alternator, etc. Are there any written records of this work that show the date/mileage point and the work done?
  • Run the water systems: turn the taps on at the sink, flush the toilet, run the showers (inside and outside if there is one).
  • Test the propane burners on the stove.
  • Inspect the propane tank and, if required, check the certification date. In Ontario, propane tanks need a clean bill of health every few years or the filling stations will not refill your tank. Propane regulations vary and are different in each province or state. Replacing the propane tank is . . . expensive.
  • Run the generator. Our manual suggests we run the generator for 20 minutes every month. Ask if it has been used regularly.
  • Test the microwave if there is one – you’ll need to be connected to a land power source.
  • Turn on the heater and play with the thermostat to make sure that it blows hot air.
  • Turn on the air conditioner (you’ll need to be hooked into land power for this).
  • Test the ceiling vent fan. The brand Fantastic Fan is the most common and it moves a lot of air very efficiently.
  • Test all the inside lights.
  • Test the fridge on all settings. We have three-way fridge that runs on 12V, electrical hookup and propane. Chances are you’ll be using the propane hookup and the electrical connection at a campground.
  • Inspect the condition of the carbon-monoxide alarm, smoke detector, fire extinguisher.
  • Check the condition of walls, ceiling (have there been any leaks?) and flooring.
  • Check the condition of the cushions – especially on the bed area – and the curtains.
  • Check the outlet valves for the grey water and black water (sewage) tanks.
  • Unroll the awning (if equipped) and check for rips, tears and condition of the mechanism. Did you know the number 1 RV insurance claim is awning related?

The chances are that the unit you’re looking at will need some modifications and/or repairs. Best to know what they are right from the start.

For a printable version of this checklist, click here: Camper van – inspection checklist

6 classic Southern foods

Think of this page as a “sampler plate.” To completely cover the range of Southern cooking would require pages and pages (and pages . . .). These are the tastes and flavours we thought of as classic Southern, the must-trys, the belt-looseners. It was a tough job, but someone had to do it.

1. GRITS

Sign outside a typical Southern restaurant (which, of course, serves grits):

southernfoodspic

The Nuts & Bolts: As Canadians, we don’t think we’d have a hope of finding them on the shelf in our local grocery store. This quintessential Southern dish is made from finely ground corn cooked with milk or water and enhanced with cheese, eggs, butter, hot sauce, shrimp, etc. It shows up on breakfast menus south of the Mason-Dixon line but is just at home on a lunch or dinner menu.

Must-Eat Experiences:

  • After a month of ordering Shrimp and Grits at every possible opportunity, I tried one that was completely different – and also delicious – at the Early Girl Eatery in downtown Asheville, North Carolina. Asheville is a mountain city (read: far from the shoreline) but that didn’t seem to matter. The dish was yummy: jumbo shrimp sautéed in a spicy brown sauce with peppers, green onions, tomato and andouille sausage that had a bit of a kick. Served over stone-ground cheese grits (the chef swears by the stone-ground variety of grits) this version of Shrimp and Grits had a more creamy than tomato base. Loved. Every. Spoonful.Early Girl Eatery shrimp and grits
  • Shrimp and Grits at the Front Street Grill at Stillwater in historic Beaufort (North Carolina) were calling to me. Really loudly. To think that I almost ordered something else from the menu (having loaded up on shrimp as we travelled down the coast the previous week) . . . best not to think about it. It was an amazing meal of enormous, local shrimp in a tasso gravy with sundered tomatoes and mushrooms, served over stone-ground cheese grits. I am a fan for life.
  • The signature dish of Shrimp and Grits at City Grocery in Oxford, Mississippi. In 2009 the restaurant won the James Beard Foundation Award for Best Southern Chef. We snagged a table at the window and had a great view of the main courthouse square in downtown Oxford. It was like watching the set of a John Grisham novel (in fact, Grisham used to call Oxford home). The dish starts with Original Grit Girl cheese grits and adds plump, sautéed shrimp, garlic, mushrooms, scallions, white wine, lemon juice and local Big Bad bacon. Shrimp and Grits has been on the menu for 21 years and nobody’s talking about taking it off.
  • Thought I’d died and gone to heaven with the Shrimp & Grits at the Breakwater Restaurant in small Hatteras village near the bottom of the North Carolina Outer Banks. If you’re unsure about grits, the flavour-filled stone-ground grits of this dish will convert you for life. The grits were the perfect backdrop to soak up a flavour-filled mixture of sautéed Carolina shrimp, spicy Andouille sausage, roasted tomatoes, mushrooms and garlic. One of the best meals of our travels.

Breakwater7

The Final Word: Grits vary from plain (for those who like their foods tilting toward bland) to a wonderful backdrop for Gulf Coast shrimp, hot sauces and creamy cheese. We’ve learned that not all grits are created the same – they’ve ranged from “meh” to “gimme more” so we’re always willing to give them a try.

2. BISCUITS AND GRAVY

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The Nuts & Bolts: Biscuits and gravy are not haute cuisine, but they are classic Southern breakfast comfort food. It is a caloric blowout, for sure. They are so passionate about it across the South that the second week of September has been crowned National Biscuits and Gravy Week. Who knew?

Must-Eat Experiences:

  • The chief of police was settled into the booth next to ours at the Blue Ridge Restaurant in Floyd, VA. Two tables over there’s a spirited discussion about local politics. If ever there was a place to experiment with authentic biscuits and gravy, this was it. The serving that arrived was enormous – easily enough to feed two – home-style biscuits doused with a white gravy peppered with sausage bits and a serving of Virginia ham on the side. The Blue Ridge is in the former Floyd County Bank Building – they still use the walk-in vault as a cooler.

The Final Word: It’s definitely “a Southern thing,” showing up on menus from McDonald’s restaurants to virtually every breakfast diner, in every state across the region. Locals we spoke to crave their biscuits and gravy hit in the morning.

3. BARBECUE

The Nuts & Bolts: We think there’s no such thing as bad barbecue . . . some just tastes better than others. But talk about regional rivalries – roasted with sauce, sauce added at serving; dry-rubbed, moist marinade; hickory wood, maple wood. One could spark a bar brawl with this kind of talk.

Must-Eat Experiences:

  • We visited months ago but we’re still dreaming of the pork barbecue at Ubon’s Barbecue, just outside Yazoo City, MS. Ubon’s award-winning pork ribs and beef brisket are to die for. Five generations of the Roark family stick close to the original recipes – back in the day they cooked up their sauces in a five-gallon washtub. “Best funeral a dead pig could ever have” boasts a sign outside the kitchen.
  • Jim ‘N Nick’s in Birmingham, AL is the original restaurant, the mothership of their locations across the South. Their conviction is that barbecue is the union of hickory and fire. All else stems from this one truth. The sandwich board on the sidewalk claims “the best pulled pork anywhere,” blues riffs drift from the open doorway, and the tantalizing smell of barbecue reaches out and yanks you inside. The meat arrives fresh and is slowly smoked over the low heat of a hickory wood fire (14 hours for the pulled pork). The slow-smoked meat shows up in all quadrants of the menu – in sandwiches, loaded on top of nachos, on baked potatoes, and mixed into salads.
  • In Abingdon, VA – along The Crooked Road music trail at the heritage centre called Heartwood the small restaurant serves barbecue including delicious pulled pork on a bun with blue cheese coleslaw, baked beans and sweet & spicy dill pickles. Heartwood holds a free Thursday evening open jam where local musicians play old-time and bluegrass.

The Final Word: Sampling barbecue is the dream assignment. Pulled pork, beef brisket, ribs served with classic Southern sides like baked beans and homemade coleslaw. As one local told us: “My grandfather used to say they’d eat everything but the squeal.”

4. FRIED CHICKEN

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The Nuts & Bolts: What can we say? They like to fry things across the South. And they especially like to fry chicken. Southern fried chicken is a religious experience: chicken pieces are battered and then pan-fried or deep-fried in sizzling oil. Seasonings may or may not be part of the equation. There’s a law in the South: Everyone’s mother makes the best fried chicken.

Must-Eat Experiences: 

  • In historic Vicksburg, MS – a stop along the beautiful Natchez Trace Trail and the location of the Vicksburg National Military Park – the Walnut Hills Restaurant served us their delicious Blue Plate Special of cayenne-sprinkled fried chicken, fried corn, okra and tomatoes, mustard greens, coleslaw and a tall glass of sweet tea.

The Final Word: You cannot escape from the South without bellying up to a picnic table meal of fried chicken. Our main takeaway? Chicken + batter + hot oil = everyone’s  mother makes the best fried chicken (natch).

5. FRESH SEAFOOD

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The Nuts & Bolts: It should come as no surprise that we ate fresh seafood every day while visiting the Gulf Coast states. We asked locals where to find a supplier at the docks, and often there was a shrimp boat tied up outside. Two family-run favourites were 13 Mile Seafood Market (great shrimp and oysters) in Apalachicola, FL and Joe Patti’s Seafood in Pensacola, FL. Without a word of a lie, you can literally jump from the shrimp boat into the side door of Joe Patti’s, one of the largest fresh seafood markets in the whole Southeast.

Must-Eat Experiences:

  • Every once in a while a meal lands on the plate that makes us salivate for weeks afterwards, aching for a repeat performance. Such was dinner at the Breakwater Restaurant in the village of Hatteras, well down the coastline of North Carolina’s Outer Banks. It would be hard to beat the starter of Steamed Shrimp (21/25 count size) pulled from the sea just a short distance up the NC coast. The moist, meaty, enormous shrimp were seasoned with Old Bay, steamed, and served with melted butter for dipping. We ordered the half-pound and quickly wished we’d indulged in the full pound plate. Their Shrimp & Grits main dish (see Grits, above) was just as amazing.

Breakwater6

  • Joe Patti’s will steam a bucket of shrimp for you to eat in the car. Grab a handful of napkins and chances are the shrimp won’t even make it out of the parking lot. We bought a pound of shrimp, took it out to the van and cooked it up right away, then ate picnic style.
  • The Steamboat Warehouse is one of the few remaining cotton warehouses on the banks of the Bayou Courtableau in tiny Washington, LA. The Eggplant Belle Rose appetizer is worth every one of its seafood-laced gazillion calories: fried eggplant medallions are topped with Gulf shrimp and fresh crabmeat, then smothered with a creamy seafood sauce and chunks of fresh bluepoint crabmeat. So rich we had to share.
  • Remoulade (in the French Quarter) serves New Orleans specialties like seafood gumbo, crawfish pie, soft-shell crab and fried catfish. We downed a platter of Shrimp Creole and practically licked the plate.
  • It’s crowded. It’s loud. It’s so way bigger than popular. And the seafood is off-the-boat fresh. It’s an Outer Banks classic: Sam & Omie’s in Nags Head, North Carolina. We gorged on seafood with their signature Shrimp Burger (an enormous pile of fried shrimp loaded onto a coleslaw-lined bun). It’s messy but delicious — if you’ve eaten one and don’t have the juices running down your arms . . . well, then you haven’t eaten one.

SamandOmies2

The Final Word: One can never have too much fresh seafood. And South is the place to get it.

6. CAJUN

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The Nuts & Bolts: Cajun cooking is, ahem, “different.” Some might describe it as an acquired taste but for the Cajuns who settled in the bayou and the remote prairie of Louisiana, they depended on a diet that leaned heavily toward seafood, local wildlife (think: gators and shrimp), heavily seasoned dishes and hearty meals, like stews and gumbos.

Must-Eat Experiences:

  • Crawfish Town USA in Breaux Bridge, LA specializes in Cajun favourites – gumbo, étouffée, cracklin’, boudin, bisques and crawfish boils. We had a delicious Spicy Shrimp and Chicken Pasta – which sounds ho-hum but was anything but bland.
  • Tabasco sauce is made from peppers on a family-run specialty farm on Avery Island in rural Louisiana. Getting to the factory was a drive across miles of low bayou country, past fields of sugar cane and rice but once there we indulged in the short factory tour. They don’t serve full meals at the site but, no matter, you can get Tabasco sauce at virtually every restaurant across the state (and much of the world). It’s a tabletop staple.
  • Everywhere across the small towns and down rural roads we saw signs for boudin, gator-on-a-stick and cracklin’.

The Final Word: Sometimes we couldn’t get enough – dishes like shrimp étouffée and pecan pie. Other unique dishes – deep-fried cracklin’ and boudin – were new to our tastebuds but beloved by locals. There’s lots to choose from in Cajun cuisine, so we never went hungry. Loved the spiciness! Best of all, food and music usually went together.

 

Dog-friendly destinations

Rigby is an easy-travellin’ kind of dog, so we have it made. In fact, she opens doors and brings down barriers with everyone she meets. We’re often astounded at how many dog positive people we encounter – at campgrounds, along city sidewalks, in shops, museums and at parks. We’ve got some general tips of how to source out pet-friendly stays, a list of some of the exceptional dog-friendly destinations we’ve had the pleasure to visit and even a link to a unique dog service in Canada to help if you can’t take Rover with you.

FINDING DOG-FRIENDLY STAYS

Destination websites often are great resources about the where-and-how of visiting with your pet.

Many towns, cities and parks welcome dogs and almost certainly have leash laws (usually a 2m/6ft leash). Off-leash parks may be the exception and a quick Internet check lists those golden spots for romp ’n’ run (kennel cough vaccination is a must-do if using these spaces).

Recognizing the trend for families and snowbirds to travel with pets in tow, many destinations are marketing themselves as dog friendly. In Florida, Panama City Beach boasts two beaches where owners can splash in the waves with their leashed pets. A Pensacola dog park includes a fenced dog beach where off-leash pooches can swim and cool off in the water. In Knoxville, TN, dogs are allowed on dozens of restaurant patios as well as into the famous Blue Plate Special noontime concert series at the city’s visitor centre. The International UFO Museum in Roswell, NM and the Pima Air & Space Museum in Tucson open their doors to well-behaved dogs on leash.

Pima + dogs

When it comes to hotel and motel stays, it’s always best to call ahead: some hotels forbid pets, others allow well-behaved pets that are not left unaccompanied and additional charges vary (from outrageous amounts exceeding the base room rate to reasonable fees to cover cleaning). Set a good example: no dogs on the furniture, regular trips to use the outdoor facilities and definitely no barking.

Policies vary at campgrounds as well. While most accept pets (leash regulations apply) it’s best to check in advance. In Ontario, all 30 provincial parks have designated exercise areas and some keep things separate with pet-free campground loops. Check out the Ontario Parks blog posting that details stays with your dog. Each campground website should let you know the do’s and don’ts.

LOOKING FOR DOG CARE?

While we haven’t had to use this service, we’ve heard that in Canada and the U.S. you can find a pre-screened, insured dog sitter who provides a cage-free environment through DogVacay. Rates include pet insurance and a daily photo, so you can stay updated. Can’t vouch for the service but we’d love to hear from those who have!

OUR FAVOURITE “DOG-POSITIVE” STOPS

We are always on the hunt for attractions, parks, etc. where we can include Rigby in our explorations. We know we’ve barely scratched the surface of what’s out there, but here are some of our favourites and a few photos to get you thinking of what’s possible:

McGee’s Atchafalaya Basin Swamp Tours, Louisiana
Why we love it: 
Getting out on a pontoon boat tour is the best way to really understand the Atchafalaya Basin, America’s largest freshwater swamp. The Basin flows between Lafayette and Baton Rouge and its nature-rich waters are largely inaccessible by car. So, boat is the way and McGee’s welcomed Rigby aboard. With gators in the water we were especially vigilant.
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International UFO Museum, New Mexico
Why we love it:
It can get pretty steamy in southern New Mexico and rather than have dogs left in overheated vehicles, the UFO Museum in quirky Roswell welcomes them into the facility. Rigby was oblivious to the displays of alien sightings and lifeforms but we thought it was pretty cool (even if improbable).

Pima Air & Space Museum, Arizona
Why we love it: 
One of the world’s largest aerospace museums is on the edge of urban Tucson. Dogs are welcome in both the indoor hangars and the acres and acres of hundreds of aircraft on display outdoors. Walking the grounds covers the entire history of flight from Kitty Hawk to supersonic across 80 acres of American aviation technology. From propeller-driven to jet engine fighters, cargo, reconnaissance, transport and bombers – if American aviation made it, it’s here. 

Tubac Presidio State Historic Park, Arizona
Why we love it: 
We have a soft spot for historic destinations and the ruins (and partial reconstruction) of the original presidio (fort) at Tubac fit the bill. Dogs aren’t allowed in the museum or the buildings but it’s a nice hour-long walk around the grounds. The presidio was built in 1752, establishing Tubac as the oldest European settlement in Arizona.

Tubac

Tubac Golf Resort, Arizona
Why we love it: 
To say that Rigby was welcomed here would be an understatement. The golf course and bar are familiar to Kevin Costner fans – parts of Tin Cup were filmed here. Complementing the luxurious surroundings, when we checked into our villa there was a doggie welcome package complete with swag for Rigby. Outside, a spiderweb of trails for an on-leash walk.

Saguaro National Park, Arizona
Why we love it: Twenty types of snakes, 17 species of bats and dozens of varieties of prickly cacti are good reasons to keep your dog on leash. While dogs are not allowed on trails, they are allowed on roadways and in picnic areas (while leashed “with a human attached at the other end”). But the view from a walk along the roadways is still spectacular – forests of cacti, including some of the densest stands of the giant Saguaro cacti, the sentinel of the West only found in the Sonoran Desert. There are approximately 1.6 million Saguaro found in this park near Tucson.

Saguaro

San Pedro Riparian National Conservation Area, Arizona
Why we love it: 
Many prime birding sites don’t allow dogs, but San Pedro (just outside the snowbird haven of Sierra Vista) welcomes leashed dogs along the largely level trails that wind along a river lined with giant cottonwood groves. Oh yeah, there are birds too. And lots of them – the NCA is a designated Globally Important Bird Area, with more than 100 species of breeding birds and another 250 species of migrant and wintering birds. We shared the trail with binocular-toting birders from around the world who were also enthusiastic dog lovers.

A Taste of Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona
Why we love it: 
It’s a match made in heaven (consume the calories and then immediately burn them off while walking the dog on this downtown Scottsdale food tour). Most of the time Rigby needed to wait outside the eateries (although some with patios did welcome dogs) but moving from place-to-place was a great way to explore the Old Town district.

Scottsdale

Veterans Oasis Park and Gilbert Riparian Preserve at Water Ranch, Arizona
Why we love it:
 The sprawling Phoenix metropolitan area is actually sprinkled with fantastic, natural parks tucked into urban settings. Our two favourites (dog friendly, on leash) were the Gilbert Riparian Preserve, the place for birding with more than 200 species and Chandler’s lake-spotted Veterans Oasis Park. Both have miles of trails for walking through wetlands, riparian and desert settings, and lakes for fishing.

Moab Area Hiking Trails, Utah
Why we love it:
Dogs are not permitted on the trails within nearby Arches National Park, but there are pet-friendly trails on much of the public lands that surround the park. While a leash is only recommended in the backcountry, dogs do need to be under verbal restraint and not chase or harass wildlife. We hiked Mary Jane Canyon, soaked our feet in the red mud of the stream and generally just gobbled up the delicious red rock scenery.
Moab

Self-guided city walking tours
Why we love them: 
Most visitor centres have self-guided walking tours of the city core. We check it out every time and can recommend any one of these:

Old Town Albuquerque where paw prints painted on the sidewalks lead from one pet-friendly shop to the next; the old copper mine in Bisbee, Arizona may be long closed, but the downtown has seen a remake of the old Brewery Gulch neighbourhood and the hilly shop-lined streets; Silver City near the Gila National Forest is know for its arts community, colourful murals and brightly-painted storefronts; strolling along one of the Natchez Trails above the banks of the Mississippi River through Bluff Park in the Southern town of Natchezthe historic streets of tiny Lincoln, New Mexico have been preserved as the Lincoln Historic Site, forever associated with the history of Billy the Kid, the charming gunslinger who became the iconic character of a wild and untamed territory;  taking in the mural painted floodwalls in Paducah, Kentucky, a UNESCO Creative City and home to the National Quilt Museum; the whole easily-walkable town of blues-inspired Clarksdale, Mississippi is dog positive; Louisville, Kentucky is a large city with an extremely walkable downtown with a playful spirit. We checked out the enormous baseball bats outside the Louisville Slugger Museum, the giant golden David statue and the curvaceous exterior of the world-class Muhammad Ali Center.
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Travel health: Words of wisdom from the veterinarian

Not saying that Rigby has her own personal physician, but there is a “doctor in the house” so to speak. A member of the family is a practicing veterinarian in Canada and we tap into her words of wisdom for keeping our dog healthy and safe.

  1. You can’t leave dogs unattended in vehicles – so plan your trip so you have provisions for an air conditioned place to take them if it’s warm.
    What we do: There are some national parks and attractions with kennels for your pooch to relax while you are hiking (in non-pet areas) or taking in the theme parks, etc. At Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument in southern New Mexico, there are shaded kennels (free) at the base of the trails. The Pima Air & Space Museum in Tucson treated Rigby like royalty in their free, climate controlled kennel. Major resorts like Walt Disney World often have onsite kennels for overnight or daytime stays. There are even some museums and attractions that are dog friendly – we found that they welcomed dogs, as well as aliens, into the International UFO Museum in Roswell, New Mexico.
  2. Watch for ticks – especially in the woods and long grass.
    What we do: Rigby gets checked every day, especially after a romp through the woods or the tall grass. If we find a tick, the tweezers come out and it gets pulled immediately. There’s tough to find when they’re small, so we make sure to do a tactile check every day. But, as they say, “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” – we make sure she gets the proper dose of anti-tick meds through the season (we use a product like K9 Advantix).
  3. Heartworm disease is a problem, even in the south in the winter months.
    What we do: Heartworm is easy to prevent – through regular testing and regular preventative medication through our vet. The Ontario Veterinary Medical Association says: “the preventive program involves giving the dog a pill or applying a solution to the skin once a month during mosquito season . . . this medication destroys the immature heartworms transmitted by the mosquitoes and stops the cycle of the parasites.”
  4. If your pet suffers from anxiety, talk to your vet about medications or behaviour modification strategies. Be aware that medications may have stronger effects if you are at higher elevations.
    What we do: Rigby is just about as laid back as they come, so this hasn’t been a problem for us. Calming routines and the chance to exercise has been our ticket to keeping her a happy traveller. Off-leash parks are a dog owner’s nirvana. Ask around and check out the page on dog-friendly destinations.