Category Archives: RV travel

Heading back to the Mississippi Delta (and escaping the Canadian snow!)

Big news at our end. The past year was a bit of a roller coaster for most people – for us it included buying a new(er) Roadtrek that we are in love with as well as working on book ideas.

Our first big road trip was the one that delved deep into the roots of American music. Our goal is to write a travel guidebook about exploring the roots of a unique style of American-born music, the blues (publication date: 2018).

So, we are back on the road for a month this winter, tidying up the bits and pieces of research for the book. Our travels will take us through Memphis, zig-zagging all across Mississippi, into Louisiana and ending at Muscle Shoals, Alabama.

MS Blues collage

While we’re gone, we’ll be blogging from the road – just for the fun of it – because there are some very cool stops we’ll be making, including . . .

  • The birthplace of Robert Johnson and the church where he sang in the choir.
  • Interviews with David Hood (one of the original Swampers in Muscle Shoals), Clarksdale author and blues enthusiast Roger Stolle, blues players including Jimmy “Duck” Holmes and King Edward, Rick Hall (founder of Fame Studios in Muscle Shoals) and Jerry Phillips (son of the late Sam Phillips, the man who discovered Elvis, Johnny Cash, Carl Perkins and Jerry Lee Lewis).
  • If there’s a blues museum in Mississippi, we’re stopping in.
  • Touring the recently-opened 3614 Jackson Highway in Muscle Shoals Sound Studio. The last time we were there it was still boarded up and the revived studio space was just an idea.
  • So, we’re packing up the van, washing the dog, unfolding our maps (and plugging in the GPS) and soon we’ll be off. If you have any ideas for what sorts of things you’d like to learn about the blues please let us know!

    Rock & Roll Hall of Fame … what better spot to write our last post and pics.

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    If you’re a baby-boomer, you were transformed by rock and roll — even if you hated it. Rock and roll was to the culture of the 20th century roughly what the industrial revolution was to the 18th century. It swept everything before it, changing people and the societies they lived in while at the same time reflecting these changes back upon those people and societies. Rock and roll was — and in some respects still is — a global earthquake affecting culture and politics and economics and business and social and gender relations in every community that it touched, a tsunami of consciousness transformation that roiled individuals, families and communities and nations.

    Do I overstate this? Hardly. Rock and roll was about music — of course — but it was also about politics: it was the first music to — thanks to radio — reach a mass audience of people primed to question every form of authority they had grown up with. Rock and roll and radio and rebellion were made for each other. The rise of rock and roll coincides with the arrival of a new level of popular consciousness that was liberated from the stagnating conventions of the post-war era. 

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    It’s not overstating it to say that every significant event of the tumultuous 20th century was either lionized in song or surrounded by melody and harmony like a soundtrack that somehow made sense of it all while lifting it to a higher level of meaning.

    To really understand the force of this synergy, you have to visit the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame in Cleveland. If you hate rock and roll, you’ll have lots to focus your venom on — lots of reasons to wish things had gone differently and lots of people on whom to pin the blame. But if you love rock and roll you’ll have lots of opportunity to bask in what made it glorious. You’ll have the chance to stand inches from the white Fender Stratocaster on which Jimi Hendrix closed the Woodstock Music & Art Fair in 1969 with the Star Spangled Banner. That moment alone vaulted an already hugely talented wunderkind into a stratosphere of controversy because it at once celebrated — and held a mirror up to — the American soul for its role in Vietnam. At least, that’s how people of the time understood it.

    That’s only one exhibit of thousands. All told, the Hall of Fame numbers more than 100,000 items in its vast collection — only a fraction of which are on display at any time. If you don’t get off looking at films of the early Elvis driving the white kids into frenzy, perhaps you’ll dig reading the handwritten lyrics to Give Peace A Chance or lingering over the guitar on which Lennon performed his eponymous anti-war song. The Hall of Fame advises that you’ll need 2.5 hours to view its collection — but if you really want to immerse yourself be prepared to stay much longer.

    So musical instruments are not your thing? Stage wear, not so much? To really appreciate an exhibit on this scale, you have to comprehend that some titans of modern art have chosen rock and roll as the vehicle to make their mark on history. Some — say, Elton John — just wanted to write songs that everyone would sing along with. Others, like little Richard, just wanted to be the centre of attention — to be adored for their quirkiness. But Roger Waters, the prime mover behind Pink Floyd, could have been a force of nature in any art form he tackled — and his contribution to popular music will long endure. And on and on it goes.

    Pro Tip: Give yourself lots of time. Some parts of the six floors will not interest you. Some — like the massive ground floor displays — are indispensable for their context setting, their deep explanations for the origins of rock and roll and its formative names and songs. If you’re not interested in the music or the cultural significance, linger over the political upheaval that rock and roll provoked. If you were born between 1945 and 1960, you were affected by rock and roll. Maybe you got lucky and you’ll find much to celebrate about it. But you won’t be unaffected by the experience of visiting the Hall of Fame.

    www.visittheusa.ca

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    Elk run faster than humans (good to know)

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    Estes Park is the small Colorado gateway community that sits at the very eastern edge of Rocky Mountain National Park. It started as a ranching community but quickly switched its focus to tourism. RMNP is the third most-visited park in the National Park System – people come for the mountain scenery, the watchable wildlife and the hiking, biking and rock climbing. Denver and Boulder are a short drive away.

    Quirky fact: In the 1970s, Stephen King was stranded here in a snowstorm and stayed overnight at The Stanley Hotel, the town’s most historic property. He and his wife were the hotel’s only guests. It’s said that that night at The Stanley was the inspirational fodder for his novel, The Shining. They play the creepy movie on a continuous loop in the hotel.

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    Fall is a busy time at RMNP – people are drawn to the park to see the elk rut. And it’s not too hard to find as the elk are everywhere. On the hillsides, on the grasslands, on the roadsides, on the road. Dawn or dusk are best spotting times. Jo spent an evening on the excellent Rocky Mountain Conservancy’s Elk Expedition with naturalist guide Kevin Cook. Kevin knows everything there is to know about elk. Stumping him is … impossible.

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    We drove along the Old River Road and came across a lonely looking “bachelor bull” – one sad looking guy without a harem of females. Another mile along was a whole different story – a strutting alpha bull with a harem of about 15 females. Kevin explains: “A harem is a social unit that is managed by a single alpha bull called the harem master.” Bulls are very protective of their harem of cows and this one didn’t want anyone messing with his women.

    When you assemble several social units together, you get a herd. This only happens after the males have “done their duty” and all the females are impregnated (tough job, but someone has to get it done). At this point the male loses breeding interest and scales back his aggressive behaviour.

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    During the two-month long rut (the breeding season), the harem master “bugles” to keep other males away, marking his territory. It’s a wonderful sound! He expends a lot of energy and attention in keeping his harem of cows together. That’s why the rutting season can be a dicey time for human visitors – you have to be very careful not to get between a bull and his cows, or to make the bull feel threatened by getting too close. The park ranger tells us they sometimes see visitors trying to get close enough to take selfie-style photos!

    What you need to remember is that the bull elk is about 800 lbs and can run four times faster than a human. You do the math.

    www.colorado.com

    www.visittheusa.ca 

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    Very photogenic: Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

    Black Canyon of the Gunnison AND the biggest RV you’ve ever seen!

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    Admission time: Before we got to this point in our trip, we didn’t know anything about the Black Gunnison in Colorado. We hadn’t fully researched the stop yet and thought it might be a battle site or some sort of historic marker. Well, were we ever off the mark.

    Black Canyon of the Gunnison is a national park showcasing an extraordinary demonstration of the power of water to sculpt a landscape (yes, more rocks!). In this case we are talking about the Gunnison River (nicknamed the “Gunny”) but the rocks here are very different from anything we’d seen in Utah, Wyoming or Colorado. This dark grey schist and gneiss are the “basement rocks” of the Precambrian-era. Think really old. Think rocks that are very, very hard and resistant to the erosive effects of water and wind. Think: Black Canyon. Now the name makes sense.

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    These are the oldest and hardest rocks in North America. The canyon is narrow and very deep (the site of Colorado’s highest cliff faces – the Empire State Building would barely crack the halfway mark). The deep canyon was carved by the river over a period of two-million-years and exposes two-billion years of geology. The rock is so tough that one year of erosion wears away the equivalent of the width of a human hair.

    The park itself is on a remote plateau at an elevation of around 2,400 metres. The air is thin and the vegetation is mainly scrub oak and some stunted fir trees. We camped at the wonderful national park campground and were treated to another star-filled night with a sliver of a new moon in the very early morning. The Milky Way was on full display. This park is an International Dark Sky Park.

    There’s a scenic drive along the rim road with all kinds of pullouts and short hikes down to the edge. However, our favourite viewpoints were on our early morning hike along the twisty Rim Trail. The two-mile hike was quiet (this park is also blessedly free of crowds), the air was crisp and fragrant, and we stopped and watched the birds swirling and swooping deep into the canyon.

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    On the way back from our hike we were taken aback by an enormous white “garbage truck” pulling into one of the scenic lookouts. This seemed very out of place to us – until we took a closer look and noticed the EU licence plate, the Swiss flag decals on the front and the two people who hopped down from the cab (definitely not sanitation workers!). And that is how we came to meet Elisabeth and Kurt, two early retirees from Switzerland who have been travelling for three years in their custom-built motorhome/RV.

    “RV on steroids” jumped to mind. Their home on wheels appears to be an adapted armoured personnel carrier on a Mercedes-Benz platform: 450-litre diesel fuel tank, 800-litre water tank, a huge bank of batteries (that must weigh a ton) and an array of solar panels. Their solar has been so efficient that they’ve hardly had to turn on the generator.

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    We felt like road trip pikers next to Elisabeth and Kurt. They shipped their RV from Hamburg to Buenos Aires three years ago and have been travelling South America from top to bottom, all through Central America, and for the next 13 months will be exploring the U.S. (including a side trip up to Alaska) and Canada before shipping their motorhome back to Europe from Halifax. We exchanged contact information as well as an open invitation to stay at our place when they pass through southern Ontario. We hope they do – if and when it happens we will invite all our friends and throw them a welcome party filled with food and friends and music. Everyone we know will want to hear all about their inspirational travels. So – Elisabeth and Kurt … don’t forget our invite!!

    For more photos: click here.

    www.nps.gov/blca/index.htm

    www.colorado.com

    www.visittheusa.ca

    Spoiler alert: We loved Ouray!

    Spoiler alert: We loved Ouray (pronounced U-RAY).

    What’s not to like? A clean, friendly, authentic western mountain town, tucked in a narrow valley with craggy, granite rocks on one side and snow-capped peaks on the other.

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    This is a former gold and silver mining area, but once mining went belly up (more or less), they reinvented themselves into a funky, small (population 1,000) getaway spot carved into the western slopes of the Rockies.

    The setting, the old mining roads and the cliffs (a rock climber’s dream) attract all sorts of people scrambling around on trails, scaling rock faces (winter and summer), mountain biking and trying not to collide with mountain sheep. There isn’t a flat surface here – and that includes the historic Main Street lined with small, independent shops (not a single chain or franchise in the whole place).

    Ouray is encircled by a well maintained hiking trail about 10 km in length, with all sorts of short trail spurs branching off. We were able to get in an afternoon hike – leashed dogs okay – with excellent views up to the surrounding mountains. This is bear country (didn’t see any) as well as deer and fox (when we found our campground we were warned of a fox that likes to steal shoes left outside … a Shoe Chick Fox).

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    And we haven’t even mentioned the natural thermal hot springs (without sulphur) that make Ouray famous. In the name of research, we dipped into the two main ones in town.

    The downtown Ouray Hot Springs is 75 years old and has just closed for a major renovation (reopening May 2017 – we were actually bobbing about in the hottest pool mere hours before they closed for the renovation). Forget meeting at the local bar for a TGIF get together. These pools were filled with boomer-age locals, who donned suits and hung out in the water while catching up on each other’s lives.

    It was the perfect way to end a great day in a great little town. We camped at the splendid National Forest campsite perched above town – Amphitheater Campground. Small, no services at all, perfect little sites and dark, dark, dark at night so we got a real show of the stars and constellations.

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    The next morning, we had to (sadly) leave Ouray. Next time we’ll build in more time here – the town is halfway between Grand Junction (and the Colorado National Monument) and Durango to the south. So, to take some of the sting out of leaving, we spent the morning at Orvis Hot Springs, another set of thermal pools just north of town.

    Orvis Hot Springs is beautifully laid out – lots of little pathways and shrubbery separating meditative spaces, clusters of Adirondack chairs and about a half-dozen unique thermal pools (different in terms of size, shape and temperature). Our favourite was the hottest one called the Lobster Pot (112F). There is a definite hippy-dippy vibe – the indoor bulletin board is plastered with notices for yoga, dog-sitting collectives, astrology readings, etc.. There are even some clothing optional pools. (You can ask. We may or may not tell.)

    www.ouraycolorado.com 

    www.colorado.com

    www.visittheusa.ca

    Colorado National Monument & area – pretty photogenic …

    Talk about a drop off the cliff!

    The U.S. National Park Service is made up of many different types of sites. Two of the most common are National Parks and National Monuments, which are often confused. The parks have been protected for eternity by an act of Congress; monuments have been created by presidential proclamation. It doesn’t mean that there is an obelisk or statue at the latter. It’s a common misconception – the park ranger at Colorado National Monument near Grand Junction, CO told us the oddest question he gets is, “Where is the monument?”

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    Well, the whole park at Colorado National Monument is the monument. There was little in the valley communities below to prepare us for the jaw-dropping scenery along the 23-mile, Rim Rock Drive following the park’s exposed ridge. Craig – ever the boundary pusher – bellied up to the cliff edge to get photos. I did a mental update on our life insurance policies.

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    A highlight for us was actually inside, at the Visitor Center where the excellent short film was full of ah-ha moments about the geology of the entire Colorado Plateau. It’s available on YouTube and shouldn’t be missed if you are heading west (and especially if you are a bit of a Geology Geek).

    In a nutshell, 80 million years ago, this area was flat. Between 70 and 40 million years ago, moderately-strong earthquakes along the visible Redlands Fault created the tilt and shift in huge layers of rock, forming basins and uplifts. The faultline runs right through the park and we crisscrossed it several times – the erosion of the last 10 million years has exposed the actual fault. Subsequent erosion slowly removed loose and weaker rocks that crumble, creating dramatic canyons and spires of the rocks more resistant to wind and water.

    We hiked a few trails (gotta get out of the van!) along cliff edges dotted with a sparse growth pinyon-juniper woodland. Many of the scrubby junipers – scaly leaves and waxy, blue berries – are 800-years-old. In the distance we could see a group of rock climbers who’d made it to the summit of vertiginously-high Independence Rock.

    Back at valley level we overnighted and dined out in Grand Junction, a college town much the same size as our hometown. The pedestrian-friendly, downtown main street looks as though it has triumphed over the hit by the big box stores on city’s edge. There are independent, interesting eateries and shops, lots of places to sit and relax, and art sculptures that range from conventional to whimsical.

    Colorado is known for craft breweries, so we ate dinner at Rockslide Restaurant and Brewery, the city’s first brew pub located in a historic, circa 1900s brick building. The menu ranged well beyond standard pub fare and there was a half-dozen of the brewery’s handcrafted beers on tap. The most popular is the Widowmaker Wheat, a mildly hopped blend of pale and wheat malts. Craig (who loves Guinness) went for the Big Bear Oatmeal Stout – declared as superb!

    The next day we had a late afternoon lunch at Café Sol (also on Main Street) – a fantastic dining experience. Clean, funky, colourful with an interesting menu of soups, salads, paninis and desserts created with mainly organic ingredients. Incredibly fresh foods and enormous portions (they have self-serve To-Go boxes). We were splitting a side salad that could have easily satisfied four to five.

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    While we do have a strong preference for the more rustic state and national park campgrounds, our spot at Junction West RV Park hit several markers: it was super clean, centrally located for all the local stops we wanted to make, super clean, had a fast Wi-Fi signal so we could write and file stories, was quiet and spacious . . .  and did we mention super clean?

    www.colorado.com 

    www.visittheusa.ca

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