Category Archives: Pet travel

Cape Hatteras National Seashore: Where land and sea meet

It would have been a mistake to look at a map of the stretch of barrier islands to the south, turn around and head back north to the comforts of the Outer Banks’ “larger” communities, like Nags Head, Kitty Hawk and Manteo. As lovely as these villages are – and they are great places to visit – things got really interesting the further we drove south into the heart of Cape Hatteras National Seashore.

First, a little geography: Cape Hatteras National Seashore is a long, pencil-thin stretch of barrier islands (Bodie, Hatteras, Ocracoke) with the dunes of the Atlantic Ocean on one side and the water of Pamlico Sound on the other. It’s largely land under the watch of the National Park Service, so gets a high level of environmental protection. There are several historic villages scattered along the way (not part of the NPS land) with large beachfront homes and all the amenities of a smaller town.

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We’ve already written about the shifting sand and the close watch residents keep through hurricane season (June – November) but the real highlight is what’s not along long stretches of this pristine coast. The NPS has preserved wetlands for migratory birds (hike along a boardwalk at Pea island National Wildlife Refuge), historic lighthouses and miles of remote sand beach.

In the water, dolphins played. On the shoreline, a few fishermen planted their long rods to cast from the surf and the occasional walker doffed footwear and strolled barefoot along the sand. No shops. No go-carts or mini-golf. Not even a single vending machine. In the NPS campgrounds? No electrical hook-ups and cold water showers. Ink-black skies at night. It’s not everyone’s cup of tea but it sure is ours.

The Outer Banks are infamous as the Graveyard of the Atlantic – a testament to the dangerous shoals that claimed many a passing ship (the estimate is the waters off the banks holds more than 600 shipwrecks dating back centuries).

Craig took the ranger-guided hike up the black and white striped Bodie Island Light Station. The view from the top was great over the long dunes and the salt marshes that are a perfect stopover point for birds migrating north-south along the Atlantic Flyway. Bodie Island Lighthouse was built in 1871, is 214 steps and on a clear day you can see 30 km (18 mi) from the top. Its flash pattern is 2.5 on, 2.5 off, 2.5 on, 22.5 off (just in case you were wondering) and it still uses an original Fresnel lens. The grounds of the lighthouse are dog friendly (but not a climb to the top).

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A little further down the road we stopped at the candy-cane striped lighthouse that most people associate with the Outer Banks: Cape Hatteras Light Station. The National Historic Landmark is the continent’s tallest brick lighthouse (a climb up Hatteras is 248 steps, equivalent to a 12-storey building). The grounds of the lighthouse are dog friendly (but not a climb to the top).

The iconic lighthouse also made it to many a newspaper front page in 1999 when the National Park Service moved the entire brick structure 460 m (1,500 ft) back from an encroaching sea. The sands continue to shift but they say the move should keep the tall building safe for a good long time.

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In Hatteras Village we ate dinner overlooking a dock filled with fishing boats and had a seafood meal that set the bar high for the remainder of our trip. The chef at the Breakwater Restaurant buys local: shrimp, scallops, grouper, flounder, tuna and it shows in the taste on the plate. We ate our fill of steamed shrimp the size of a toddler’s fist that were flavour-packed, meaty and didn’t suffer a bit from being dipped in melted butter. On a quest to embrace grits, Jo ate a delicious main of Shrimp & Grits (and yes, it did the trick – now a convert) and Craig had spicy, blackened chunks of yellowfin tuna (the catch of the day) wrapped in soft wheat tortillas and served with sides of black beans, rice and a pineapple chutney. Dessert was one slice/two forks of Peanut Butter Pie – a rich and creamy PB centre topped with dark, chocolate ganache.

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Like we said, the bar is set high.

Dog-friendly destinations

Rigby is an easy-travellin’ kind of dog, so we have it made. In fact, she opens doors and brings down barriers with everyone she meets. We’re often astounded at how many dog positive people we encounter – at campgrounds, along city sidewalks, in shops, museums and at parks. We’ve got some general tips of how to source out pet-friendly stays, a list of some of the exceptional dog-friendly destinations we’ve had the pleasure to visit and even a link to a unique dog service in Canada to help if you can’t take Rover with you.

FINDING DOG-FRIENDLY STAYS

Destination websites often are great resources about the where-and-how of visiting with your pet.

Many towns, cities and parks welcome dogs and almost certainly have leash laws (usually a 2m/6ft leash). Off-leash parks may be the exception and a quick Internet check lists those golden spots for romp ’n’ run (kennel cough vaccination is a must-do if using these spaces).

Recognizing the trend for families and snowbirds to travel with pets in tow, many destinations are marketing themselves as dog friendly. In Florida, Panama City Beach boasts two beaches where owners can splash in the waves with their leashed pets. A Pensacola dog park includes a fenced dog beach where off-leash pooches can swim and cool off in the water. In Knoxville, TN, dogs are allowed on dozens of restaurant patios as well as into the famous Blue Plate Special noontime concert series at the city’s visitor centre. The International UFO Museum in Roswell, NM and the Pima Air & Space Museum in Tucson open their doors to well-behaved dogs on leash.

Pima + dogs

When it comes to hotel and motel stays, it’s always best to call ahead: some hotels forbid pets, others allow well-behaved pets that are not left unaccompanied and additional charges vary (from outrageous amounts exceeding the base room rate to reasonable fees to cover cleaning). Set a good example: no dogs on the furniture, regular trips to use the outdoor facilities and definitely no barking.

Policies vary at campgrounds as well. While most accept pets (leash regulations apply) it’s best to check in advance. In Ontario, all 30 provincial parks have designated exercise areas and some keep things separate with pet-free campground loops. Check out the Ontario Parks blog posting that details stays with your dog. Each campground website should let you know the do’s and don’ts.

LOOKING FOR DOG CARE?

While we haven’t had to use this service, we’ve heard that in Canada and the U.S. you can find a pre-screened, insured dog sitter who provides a cage-free environment through DogVacay. Rates include pet insurance and a daily photo, so you can stay updated. Can’t vouch for the service but we’d love to hear from those who have!

OUR FAVOURITE “DOG-POSITIVE” STOPS

We are always on the hunt for attractions, parks, etc. where we can include Rigby in our explorations. We know we’ve barely scratched the surface of what’s out there, but here are some of our favourites and a few photos to get you thinking of what’s possible:

McGee’s Atchafalaya Basin Swamp Tours, Louisiana
Why we love it: 
Getting out on a pontoon boat tour is the best way to really understand the Atchafalaya Basin, America’s largest freshwater swamp. The Basin flows between Lafayette and Baton Rouge and its nature-rich waters are largely inaccessible by car. So, boat is the way and McGee’s welcomed Rigby aboard. With gators in the water we were especially vigilant.
bayou

International UFO Museum, New Mexico
Why we love it:
It can get pretty steamy in southern New Mexico and rather than have dogs left in overheated vehicles, the UFO Museum in quirky Roswell welcomes them into the facility. Rigby was oblivious to the displays of alien sightings and lifeforms but we thought it was pretty cool (even if improbable).

Pima Air & Space Museum, Arizona
Why we love it: 
One of the world’s largest aerospace museums is on the edge of urban Tucson. Dogs are welcome in both the indoor hangars and the acres and acres of hundreds of aircraft on display outdoors. Walking the grounds covers the entire history of flight from Kitty Hawk to supersonic across 80 acres of American aviation technology. From propeller-driven to jet engine fighters, cargo, reconnaissance, transport and bombers – if American aviation made it, it’s here. 

Tubac Presidio State Historic Park, Arizona
Why we love it: 
We have a soft spot for historic destinations and the ruins (and partial reconstruction) of the original presidio (fort) at Tubac fit the bill. Dogs aren’t allowed in the museum or the buildings but it’s a nice hour-long walk around the grounds. The presidio was built in 1752, establishing Tubac as the oldest European settlement in Arizona.

Tubac

Tubac Golf Resort, Arizona
Why we love it: 
To say that Rigby was welcomed here would be an understatement. The golf course and bar are familiar to Kevin Costner fans – parts of Tin Cup were filmed here. Complementing the luxurious surroundings, when we checked into our villa there was a doggie welcome package complete with swag for Rigby. Outside, a spiderweb of trails for an on-leash walk.

Saguaro National Park, Arizona
Why we love it: Twenty types of snakes, 17 species of bats and dozens of varieties of prickly cacti are good reasons to keep your dog on leash. While dogs are not allowed on trails, they are allowed on roadways and in picnic areas (while leashed “with a human attached at the other end”). But the view from a walk along the roadways is still spectacular – forests of cacti, including some of the densest stands of the giant Saguaro cacti, the sentinel of the West only found in the Sonoran Desert. There are approximately 1.6 million Saguaro found in this park near Tucson.

Saguaro

San Pedro Riparian National Conservation Area, Arizona
Why we love it: 
Many prime birding sites don’t allow dogs, but San Pedro (just outside the snowbird haven of Sierra Vista) welcomes leashed dogs along the largely level trails that wind along a river lined with giant cottonwood groves. Oh yeah, there are birds too. And lots of them – the NCA is a designated Globally Important Bird Area, with more than 100 species of breeding birds and another 250 species of migrant and wintering birds. We shared the trail with binocular-toting birders from around the world who were also enthusiastic dog lovers.

A Taste of Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona
Why we love it: 
It’s a match made in heaven (consume the calories and then immediately burn them off while walking the dog on this downtown Scottsdale food tour). Most of the time Rigby needed to wait outside the eateries (although some with patios did welcome dogs) but moving from place-to-place was a great way to explore the Old Town district.

Scottsdale

Veterans Oasis Park and Gilbert Riparian Preserve at Water Ranch, Arizona
Why we love it:
 The sprawling Phoenix metropolitan area is actually sprinkled with fantastic, natural parks tucked into urban settings. Our two favourites (dog friendly, on leash) were the Gilbert Riparian Preserve, the place for birding with more than 200 species and Chandler’s lake-spotted Veterans Oasis Park. Both have miles of trails for walking through wetlands, riparian and desert settings, and lakes for fishing.

Moab Area Hiking Trails, Utah
Why we love it:
Dogs are not permitted on the trails within nearby Arches National Park, but there are pet-friendly trails on much of the public lands that surround the park. While a leash is only recommended in the backcountry, dogs do need to be under verbal restraint and not chase or harass wildlife. We hiked Mary Jane Canyon, soaked our feet in the red mud of the stream and generally just gobbled up the delicious red rock scenery.
Moab

Self-guided city walking tours
Why we love them: 
Most visitor centres have self-guided walking tours of the city core. We check it out every time and can recommend any one of these:

Old Town Albuquerque where paw prints painted on the sidewalks lead from one pet-friendly shop to the next; the old copper mine in Bisbee, Arizona may be long closed, but the downtown has seen a remake of the old Brewery Gulch neighbourhood and the hilly shop-lined streets; Silver City near the Gila National Forest is know for its arts community, colourful murals and brightly-painted storefronts; strolling along one of the Natchez Trails above the banks of the Mississippi River through Bluff Park in the Southern town of Natchezthe historic streets of tiny Lincoln, New Mexico have been preserved as the Lincoln Historic Site, forever associated with the history of Billy the Kid, the charming gunslinger who became the iconic character of a wild and untamed territory;  taking in the mural painted floodwalls in Paducah, Kentucky, a UNESCO Creative City and home to the National Quilt Museum; the whole easily-walkable town of blues-inspired Clarksdale, Mississippi is dog positive; Louisville, Kentucky is a large city with an extremely walkable downtown with a playful spirit. We checked out the enormous baseball bats outside the Louisville Slugger Museum, the giant golden David statue and the curvaceous exterior of the world-class Muhammad Ali Center.
SC mural

 

 

 

 

 

 

Travel health: Words of wisdom from the veterinarian

Not saying that Rigby has her own personal physician, but there is a “doctor in the house” so to speak. A member of the family is a practicing veterinarian in Canada and we tap into her words of wisdom for keeping our dog healthy and safe.

  1. You can’t leave dogs unattended in vehicles – so plan your trip so you have provisions for an air conditioned place to take them if it’s warm.
    What we do: There are some national parks and attractions with kennels for your pooch to relax while you are hiking (in non-pet areas) or taking in the theme parks, etc. At Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument in southern New Mexico, there are shaded kennels (free) at the base of the trails. The Pima Air & Space Museum in Tucson treated Rigby like royalty in their free, climate controlled kennel. Major resorts like Walt Disney World often have onsite kennels for overnight or daytime stays. There are even some museums and attractions that are dog friendly – we found that they welcomed dogs, as well as aliens, into the International UFO Museum in Roswell, New Mexico.
  2. Watch for ticks – especially in the woods and long grass.
    What we do: Rigby gets checked every day, especially after a romp through the woods or the tall grass. If we find a tick, the tweezers come out and it gets pulled immediately. There’s tough to find when they’re small, so we make sure to do a tactile check every day. But, as they say, “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” – we make sure she gets the proper dose of anti-tick meds through the season (we use a product like K9 Advantix).
  3. Heartworm disease is a problem, even in the south in the winter months.
    What we do: Heartworm is easy to prevent – through regular testing and regular preventative medication through our vet. The Ontario Veterinary Medical Association says: “the preventive program involves giving the dog a pill or applying a solution to the skin once a month during mosquito season . . . this medication destroys the immature heartworms transmitted by the mosquitoes and stops the cycle of the parasites.”
  4. If your pet suffers from anxiety, talk to your vet about medications or behaviour modification strategies. Be aware that medications may have stronger effects if you are at higher elevations.
    What we do: Rigby is just about as laid back as they come, so this hasn’t been a problem for us. Calming routines and the chance to exercise has been our ticket to keeping her a happy traveller. Off-leash parks are a dog owner’s nirvana. Ask around and check out the page on dog-friendly destinations.

Dog packing checklist

Rigby

MUST HAVE

  • leash & collar with ID tags
  • veterinarian certificate/immunization records – rabies, Lyme disease
  • medications – tick/flea meds, Heartgard, any prescription medications
  • dog food (in original packaging) and treats
  • food and water bowls
  • poop bags (what goes in, must come out . . .)
  • “poo finding flashlight” (for those nighttime runs)
  • paw towels
  • ball and thrower
  • brush
  • dog bed
  • favourite chew toy
  • photo of your pet, in case you (gasp!) get separated
  • finally . . . don’t forget the dog!

ADDITIONAL ITEMS

  • microchip number
  • collapsible water bowl for hikes
  • dog backpack
  • dog PFD/lifejacket
  • crate
  • harness/restraint for inside the RV
  • pet shampoo
  • with a vet’s approval – antihistamine for allergies, motion sickness medication, anti-diarrheal

EMERGENCY NUMBERS

Pet Poison Hotline 24/7 (Canada and U.S.)  1-800-213-6680
ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (Canada and U.S.)  1-888-426-4435

PRINT HERE: Dog packing checklist

Dogs: Border crossing 101

Up-to-date vaccinations are mandatory. In fact, you could easily be turned back if you don’t have the proper, up-to-date paperwork. In our travels, sometimes we get asked to produce vaccination certificates, sometimes we don’t. But we always have them on hand. In addition to border crossings, many campsites require a current certificate of rabies vaccination. It’s a good idea to scan and keep a copy on your laptop, just in case it gets misplaced, lost or, you know, the dog eats it.

HEADING FROM CANADA INTO THE U.S.

U.S. border crossing requires a valid rabies vaccination certificate for dogs and that both dogs and cats be free of disease communicable to humans. Note that pet foods containing lamb, sheep and goat products are not allowed into the U.S. (you may be asked to show labels). All the details are here.

HEADING FROM THE U.S. INTO CANADA

Generally, most dogs entering Canada “on holiday” with their owners must have a valid rabies certificate of immunization. The exact requirements vary depending on the age of the dog – see the government website for exact details.

 

Packing checklists

There are three types of people in the world: those who make lists, those who follow lists and those who have no need for lists. If you fall into the third category . . . well, can’t help you. But we are list makers (and followers) because it’s a time saver (why reinvent the wheel each time around?) and it helps us avoid the hair-tearing-out frustration of needing to buy Item A, when we know we have a perfectly good Item A at home.

To make your life easy, we’ve assembled a Packing checklist that’s divided into camping items and people items.

If you’re travelling with a dog, you’ll find a detailed Dog Packing Checklist at this page.

Pet-friendly Travel

We’d never think of leaving Rigby behind. We like to joke that the camper van is essentially a large dog kennel. It gives her space to stretch and is a safe place for her while we might be out and about.

Taking a dog (or cat) along on travels is becoming popular for both families and especially for snowbirds who are heading south and west for long-stay holidays.

Words on the page

Our stories and articles appear in Canadian magazines and online.

Spring and fall, we load the van – with everything from guitars to laptops – toss in a thick bundle of maps, several notebooks and roll down the road. We meet great people, gather wonderful story material and then write, write, write. Browse the links to some of our pieces in print:

BIG TRIP #1: ROOTS OF AMERICAN MUSIC: 9,000 km through the Southeast U.S.

Music Trails of the American Southeast1

BIG TRIP #2: TUNES, RUINS & STARS: 13,000 km across the American Southwest

American Southwest

BIG TRIP #3: HUGGING THE ATLANTIC COASTLINE; MUSIC INLAND: 7,064 km

Google Maps Big Trip #3 PDF-page-001

BIG TRIP #4: ROCK & ROLL: 10,950 km exploring western U.S. National Parks

 MISCELLANEOUS

Meet our “canine concierge” Eleanor Rigby

rigbyclose_editedBreed: Border Collie mix (she was a pound rescue, so that’s our best guess)

Age: 12 years old

Has an unusual attachment to: Craig and a stuffed squirrel that squeaks

Best qualities: travels like a pro; smarter than most people; loyal to a fault; the perfect concierge

Absolutely hates: thunderstorms; fireworks; lawnmowers